This is Viennese fare for habitués of Schleifmühlgasse and aging progressives. Three sisters run this bare-bones Wirtshaus (traditional tavern) that stubbornly rejects central heating in favor of old-fashioned stoves, declines to be featured in a travel guide (touché!) and serves no-frills goulash and Schweinsbraten (roast pork) with efficient expertise.

Though rumor has it that Gasthaus Ubl want to “internationalize” the food a bit, we say: someone must be tripping.