A former textile warehouse, Expedit serves seasonal Ligurian food on large communal tables between storage shelves filled with canisters of extra virgin Taggiasca olive oil. A familiar, relaxed crowd, some advertising types.

No menus here—the servers read out the daily dishes like trofie pasta with walnut pesto and torta della nonna (a lemon tart). Unforgettable in winter: mussels in a large tin bowl with a white wine broth with twigs and sprigs of fresh herbs. Served with homemade Ligurian white bread.

Expedit sells excellent Italian ingredients, and even Ligurian toilet paper. In the cellar is a boccia alley and the “Wild Boar” lounge. Original venues for parties—catered, of course, by Expedit.